2013 Alpine Mix

The 2013 Alpine climbing season gets off to a good start of long days on Long's.  The Smear turned out to have too much Fear and we did only the approach pitch before agreeing to bail.

A run up Alexander's Chimney made for a nice moderate day on my first climb with Erik Wellborn.

Four to Field's was an enjoyable outing with Gordon, Martin, Billy and myself.  Rope work is trickier, belay stances crowdier, but it's always nice having more climbing mates about.

Spindrift avalanche scours the lower East Face of Long's obscuring the Smear of Fear

Erik Wellborn following up snow-packed gully on Alexander's Chimney.  Erik has a storied history of world-class climbs, it was a pleasure to finally tie into a rope with him!

With snow falling and the periodic white-out of spindrift avalanches, even the approach pitch to the

Smear was challenging. 

Day 2, better weather reveals the thin partially delaminated first pitch of the Smear of Fear.   Test swings on the lower ice did not provide much confidence, easily shattering large plates in the cold conditions.  

80 feet of relatively unprotected climbing on the 80 degree terrain is reflected in Gordon's enthusiasm!

Stanley the Crazy Czech, after flying up the Smear, runs out half a rope length on Crazy Train

Assault on the East Face!

Billy getting it done in style on the steep ice crux of Field's Chimney.  His hardest ice lead to date!

Steve leading up the 3rd pitch on Field's.  The upper overhang being saved for another day

Billy and I on the hike out from Field's Chimney, photo courtesy of Martin.