Wednesday, November 13, 2013
|Necrophilia vanishing before our eyes|
|Geared out (photo by G. Laurens)|
|Driving through Necro (photo by G. Laurens)|
|Eyeing the Necromancer (photo by G. Laurens)|
|Gordon following the sexual deviant|
|Approaching the thin line of the Necromancer|
|Only smears remain of the Necromancer 'Pillar'|
|Pulling hard through the crux|
Gordon continued past the belay and on to the start of the buttress bench. With some easy scrambling we made our way to the Deep Freeze approach ice in the next gully to the left.
|Gordon leading the approach ice with anticipation building to what we will find|
|Deep Freeze as big as it gets! No free hangers here.|
|On the Pillar (photo G. Laurens)|
|Moving through the middle (photo G. Laurens)|
|Steep ice approaching the crux|
|Precision swings on thin ice|
|Sunset at the top of Deep Freeze|
|A clawed hand appears from the Darkness!|
|Thankfully it's attached to Gordon.|
Wednesday, November 6, 2013
On Saturday November 2nd, Gordon and I got a really early start headed for the Long's Cirque and Field's Chimney. We were passed by a couple guys headed of course to Field's Chimney as well. With no reason to rush now that we were 2nd in line, we took an easy pace that put me at the base 3:45 after leaving the Long's Trail Head.
After waiting until the 1st party was well above the 1st pitch, Gordon started up the chimney. The leading party kept the ice fall to a minimum. I quickly followed the pitch and started leading up the 2nd.
The lead party rapped from just above the ice of P3 and we continued on.
I following the tricky roof and continued up the next 300' of varied terrain. Quite an interesting pitch with easy to funky M5 rock, ice pockets and frozen turf. We simuled the last 100'.
A long hike out in the dark made for a full day of adventure!
|Donning extra clothing for the exposed hike out of the trees|
|The guys above were nice enough to catch this shot of the WI4 section|
|Gordon following P2|
|Gordon setting up for the crux move|
|The final stem and hook before pulling over|
|Gordon arrives on Broadway|
|Looking over to the Window and the new route Window Pain|
|Gordon traversing to the Broadway Raps|
|Gordon starts the 1st of 3 raps to the upper snow field|
Friday, November 1, 2013
Erik suggested we take a look at an ice climb called the Sword of Damocles. I vaguely remember hearing about the climb before, but knew nothing about it. Online research didn't give me much information. Jack Robert's guidebook mentions the climb and has a sketch, but thats about it.
I was also curious about the name. Did find some good information there. Here is a 'modern-pop culture' explanation of the Sword. Damocles was basically a brown-noser to his boss Dionysius II of Syracuse. This Dionysius character was not a pleasant ruler and didn't take lightly to smoke being blown up his arse. Damocles was laying it on thick one afternoon when Dionysius called his bluff and suggested he play Eddie Murphy in a little 'Trading Places' skit. Of course Damocles was all over this idea not realising he was being 'royally punked'. As Damocles relaxes on the throne soaking in the riches around him, he happens to look up. Dionysius mischeviously had a huge sword hung over the throne tied with only a single strand of hair from a horses tail. As we'd expect, Damocles didn't approve of this arrangement and begged for the King to let him return to his pion status. The moral being that with treasure and power, danger and stress are ever present. Or even more concise, one cannot have contentment where fear constantly resides. Not sure how this applies to ice climbing, but I suppose you can come up with some comparison.
|Damocles not impressed with the King's symbolism|
As an ice climb it was never desparate, but certainly challenging. I assume a dagger may form up on the route, but wasn't there this day.
|Tedious gear placements, including driving 3 pins with a Nomic hammer. The 'Cold-Thistle' hammer-mod broke|
|Erik commits to the crux move over the funky M6ish wall|
|Erik following 2nd pitch|
|Erik tops the short plastic wall to the anchors|